Beizi Hanfu is a traditional Chinese garment with origins in the Song Dynasty (960–1279). Typically 90–120 cm long, it features an open front and long sleeves. Modern versions weigh 400–800 grams, use materials like silk or cotton, and are often paired with skirts or pants for versatile wear.
Historical Origin
The Beizi Hanfu originated in the Song Dynasty (960–1279), a period when elegance and practicality were emphasized in clothes. During that period, the Beizi was a unisex garment reflecting the social forces for simplicity and modesty. Women usually wore Beizi to the ankle, which allowed for coverage yet provided ease in movement. Men’s Beizi were shorter, usually to just a little below the knee, making them functional to their daily activities. According to records, a standard cotton Beizi weighed about 300–500 grams, while its silk variants, favored by the rich, weighed some 600–800 grams because of added decorative embroideries or multiple layers of cloth.
In use, Beizi was highly versatile. That served as a warm layer in colder seasons or as light outerwear during the spring and summer. For example, an average woman in the Song Dynasty might own 2–3 everyday cotton Beizi and one of higher quality silk reserved for formal events, indicative of a practical yet hierarchical wardrobe system. The durable silk Beizi could have a life span of as long as 15 years, while the cotton ones would wear out in just 8 to 10 years under regular use.
In the Yuan Dynasty, from 1271 to 1368 AD, Beizi started to display more complicated patterns and graceful styles. The width of the women’s Beizi also became bigger, with sleeves allowing room for several layerings. The fabrics used in this period also reflected improvements in textile manufacturing. The average price of a high-quality silk Beizi during the Yuan Dynasty could be as costly as three months’ wages of a skilled laborer-a reason in itself to underscore its value and exclusivity. A single silk Beizi embroidered with intricate floral or cloud motifs would take considerable time, sometimes as long as 150–200 hours, depending on the degree of intricacy in the design.
The Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) saw the peak of Beizi’s popularity, with its design evolving to match the flourishing cultural and artistic scene. Colors became significant, with red and gold symbolizing celebrations, while muted tones like blue and gray were reserved for everyday wear. During this time, a Beizi could cost anywhere from 2–6 taels of silver, depending on the material and craftsmanship. This was an expense, because the average yearly income of a middle-class family was only about 50 taels. In real practical terms, acquiring a silk Beizi was one big investment, comparable to buying a top-quality winter coat today.
Garment Type
Beizi Hanfu is versatile, acting as an open-front outerwear garment. It generally has a simple, loose structure. As it is designed without a button or zipper, it falls and flows on the body self-naturally, which makes it practical and beautiful. Beizi usually has a straight or A-line cut but is longer, from the waist down to the ankles. They were longer for women, usually between 90 and 120 centimeters in length, while for men, they were between 70 and 100 centimeters. This difference in length was appropriate to ensure practicality for different lifestyles and activities.
Width: With regard to width, the sleeve has been considered to balance elegance with usability. For women’s Beizi, the average width is between 25 and 35 centimeters to allow graceful movement without hindrance during day-to-day tasks. Men’s sleeves were a little narrower, only about 20 to 30 centimeters, reflecting the men’s need for efficiency and mobility regarding work-related activities. The width of the body was another influential factor in the adaptability of the garment. A regular Beizi for women was about 50–60 centimeters across the chest, while men’s ones measured about 55–65 centimeters. Such measures could allow different types of body size to fit into one Beizi.
The choice of fabric greatly influenced the functionality and appearance of the Beizi. For casual, everyday wear, one could use a cotton Beizi weighing around 300 to 400 grams. Silk Beizi, weighing 600 to 800 grams, would be for special occasions and colder seasons owing to its luxurious feel and insulation value. The layering possibilities made it suitable for different climates. Such as in winter, the Beizi would be worn over other padded clothes, weighing around 2–3 kilograms of clothes in total, keeping people warm and chic at the same time.
Structure and Design
The Beizi Hanfu is distinguished by its simple and flowing design, making it one of the most versatile pieces in traditional Chinese clothing. Its open-front design features no buttons or fasteners, though it can simply hang on the body. With this structure, it was appropriate for people with different body types without any special custom-made sewing. For women, Beizi usually measured from 100 to 120 centimeters in length, reaching to the ankles, while men’s Beizi were from 80 to 100 centimeters long, ending up closer to the knees. Similarly pragmatic was the width of the Beizi body: the chest circumference was about 55 to 65 centimeters for men and a bit smaller for women, about 50 to 60 centimeters, comfortable and free, allowing freedom of movement.
The sleeve further extended the functionality and aesthetic appeal of the Beizi. A woman’s Beizi would often have wider sleeves, averaging from 30 to 40 centimeters, so that it could give a beautiful and fluid silhouette. Men’s sleeves, however, were about 20 to 30 centimeters wide to stress practicality. Sleeve length also varied according to season and occasion. While the summer Beizi might feature three-quarter-length sleeves, which were 40 to 50 centimeters in length, the winter versions included full-length sleeves of 60 to 70 centimeters to keep them warm. These changes further increased its adaptability for different climes and activities.
More varied was the fabric and pattern used for Beizi. The type of fabric used directly influenced its appearance and function. For instance, ceremonial silk Beizi weighing 600 to 800 grams were intricate with embroidery or woven patterns, while linen Beizi, which weighs lighter at only 300 to 400 grams, are preferred for everyday wear because of its lightness and could breathe well. Moreover, patterns are not merely for decoration but also carry symbolic meaning. A Beizi with cloud motifs or floral embroidery involves 100 hours of detailed work by skilled craftsmen and represents status and taste. Some designs may include more than 10,000 stitches to give texture and depth to the overall garment.
Fabric and Materials
Fabric and material were important features of Beizi Hanfu, not only functionally but also aesthetically and even socially. Among the various materials, silk was extremely valued and considered the best material for Beizi. The higher class favored silk because of its softness and durability. A good silk Beizi usually weighs around 600 to 800 grams and, if well taken care of, can be worn for as many as 15 years. By contrast, cotton Beizi weighing 300 to 500 grams were more common with middle-class and lower-class wearers due to its affordability and ease of maintenance, although its lifespan under regular use often did not exceed 8 to 10 years.
The materials used changed depending on the season. For summer, lightweight and breathable fabrics like gauze silk or fine linen were preferred, with single-layered Beizi weighing about 400 grams. These allowed for more ventilation to keep the wearer cool in warmer climates. During winter, Beizi were often made from padded cotton or heavier silk blends, with weights over 1.5 kgs to insulate. Lined with wool or quilted cotton, some of the Beizi would add warmth to wearers in cold regions or during colder months but still maintained the elegance of the garment.
Garment quality usually reflected social standing. Silk Beizi designed for the nobility or officials often featured intricate embroidery, taking more than 100 hours of skilled labor. These designs could use gold or silver threads, increasing the material cost by as much as 30 to 50 percent compared to lesser designs. On the other hand, cheaper Beizi for ordinary people were made from ordinary cotton or hemp, materials that may be locally sourced and produced at a fraction of the cost. An average cotton Beizi would have cost perhaps 1-2 taels of silver, whereas an all-over embroidered silk Beizi would have been as much as 5-10 taels, several months’ income of an average family.
Layering
Layering was one of the main features of Beizi Hanfu, which easily allowed it to fit into different seasons and occasions while still looking as elegant as ever. It was supposed to be the perfect outerwear because the front of Beizi remained open. During the coldest seasons, people normally used a quilted inner robe weighing 1 to 1.5 kgs beneath a padded Beizi, which itself weighed an added 1.5 kgs. This combination kept the insulation intact but allowed freedom of movement, hence comfort during daily activities. During summer, on the other hand, there was usually a lightweight Beizi made out of silk or gauze weighing 300 to 400 grams and worn over a single robe. It was light enough to be comfortable in the warm weather.
The choice of inner layers varied significantly based on the wearer’s social status and the occasion. For example, a rich person could wear several silk layers under their Beizi; all together, it could weigh up to 3 kilograms for a formal occasion. These usually had complicated embroidery or patterns on them, making the outfit look even more elaborate. Commoners, however, wore a plain cotton robe underneath their Beizi, with the whole outfit weighing about 2 kilograms. This difference in material also affected the weight and durability of a garment, as well as its warmth. Silk layers provided better insulation and lasted for up to 15 years, while inner cotton layers had to be replaced every 5 to 7 years.
Layering also played a symbolic function in important cultural events. For instance, at weddings, the ensembles of a bride could also go to up to five layers, comprising an embroidered inner robe and another ceremonial robe, finished with a richly decorated Beizi on top. This layering often added over 4 kilograms to the outfit and signified the family’s status and the importance of the event. However, as for everyday life, practical layering was more common: The farmers and labourers may wear a thin linen layer underneath a cotton Beizi weighing in total around 2-3 kgs to provide both protection from the scorching sun and comfort while working.
Accessories
Pendants were another kind of ornament often matched with Beizi. These pendants were made of jade, agate, or other precious stones and had not only a decorative function but also symbolic ones. For example, it was believed that the jade pendant brought luck in life and protected its owner. The mass of these pendants varied depending on the material, from 50 grams of small models to more than 300 grams in complex compositions with many stones. A jade pendant could be worth between 5 to 10 taels of silver, which means it reflected one’s power and position in society, whereas wood or bone would be much cheaper, costing around 0.5 to 1 tael.
Fans were often taken out with Beizi, both practical and decorative accessories. Made of silk, paper, or bamboo, the fans were used for cooling during hot weather and further beautifying the wearer. A silk fan with hand-painted designs usually weighed 100 to 150 grams and could weigh as high as 3 taels of silver, whereas a simple bamboo fan weighing about 50 to 100 grams was about 0.3 taels. They would often match up the color and design of the fan with their Beizi to create an overall harmonious look. The fans were also one of the popular gift items because they represented refinement in culture and taste.
Headgear and hair accessories completed the Beizi attire, especially for women. Hairpins were decorated with gold, silver, or jade and weighed about 50 to 200 grams in order to hold their fantastic hairstyles. A single gold hairpin decorated with pearls might cost 10 to 15 taels of silver and was considered a status symbol. While men commonly wore simple silk or felt caps, weighing about 200 to 300 grams, these were not as commonly consumed, costing around 2 to 5 taels of silver each. These were usually worn as a reflection of their rank and occupation. For ceremonial and formal occasions, men would also adorn their caps with small jade plaques or tassels to add dignity and poise.
Modern Revival
In modern times, the revival of Beizi Hanfu can be viewed as an act of appreciation for traditional Chinese culture and fashion. The Hanfu movement started to take flight in the early 2000s, and today there are more than 2 million active participants across China and worldwide. The main reason Beizi is worn is because of its simplicity and versatility, making it popular among people. Modern Beizi weighs in the range of 400 to 600 grams, made of lighter fabrics such as chiffon or polyester blends for casual wear. Formal silk versions weigh between 800 and 1,200 grams, echoing their historical forebears.
Designers have embraced the timeless appeal of the Beizi and integrated its historical elements into modern fashion. Modern Beizi come with a more practical length, with average hemlines falling between 70 and 90 centimeters. These new designs are targeted at urban lifestyles, and wearers can easily match Beizi with jeans, skirts, or leggings. An ordinary Beizi designed for daily wear would cost between 200 and 800 RMB, while the high-quality ones using silk or embroidered fabric cost between 1,500 and 5,000 RMB, showing the timeless value and craftsmanship behind the garment.
Cultural events and festivals have also played an important role in the resurgence of Beizi. It is not uncommon to find individuals donning Beizi during traditional festivities such as the Mid-Autumn Festival and Chinese New Year, as part of their Hanfu attire. Participation in events has also been on the increase, with more than 3,000 Hanfu events organized every year across China, attracting millions of visitors. For such occasions, women usually wear an embroidered silk Beizi weighing about 800 grams together with a long skirt, while for men, less elaborate versions in cotton or silk and weighing 600 grams emphasize comfort and tradition.
Social media and e-commerce have propelled the popularity of Beizi even more. Platforms like Douyin and Xiaohongshu create thousands of videos highlighting Beizi outfits, reaching over 200 million users every month. Online retailers offer Beizi in all shapes and forms today, with more than 5,000 related products listed on major e-commerce websites like Taobao and JD.com. Entry-level Beizi, targeting younger buyers, are priced between 150 and 300 RMB, while collectors and enthusiasts can invest in a custom-made Beizi—for upwards of 8,000 RMB—matching authentic materials like silk brocade and hand-embroidered patterns.
