What is the history of the Chinese veil

The Chinese veil dates back to the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), with silk veils costing up to 1,000 coins, symbolizing modesty. In Ming weddings, intricate red veils weighed 500 grams and cost 5,000 coins, showcasing status. Northern regions favored woolen veils for harsh climates, priced around 800 coins.

Ancient Origins

The history of the Chinese veil can be traced back to the Han Dynasty, from 206 BCE to 220 CE, where veils were used primarily by aristocratic women as a sign of modesty and social status. The veils at this time were made from silk—a light, airy material that was luxurious enough to keep the wearer cool in the extreme climates of China. According to historical accounts, a high-quality silk veil may cost in the range of 500 to 1,000 coins, a really expensive cost considering that the average laborer got an approximate income of 20 coins per day. Veils were indicative of affluence, reserved for only well-to-do families who could afford them. While common women used hemp or cotton, which were considerably cheaper but less durable, lasting an average of only 2–3 years under regular use compared to 20–50 years for well-maintained silk.

The veil played a not less practical role in protecting the skin of women from sunshine. Fair skin in ancient China was a mark of beauty and social status to reflect that the person doesn’t need to do some labors outside the house; this implies a good shelter or, better said, status. Women during intense summer days—mostly greater than 32°C—common for areas such as Yangtze River basin—faces are veiled. Silk’s wicking properties allowed it to keep wearers cool in humid climates, while in the northern provinces like Shaanxi, thicker silk or woolen veils were used to protect against sandstorms and temperatures that could drop below -10°C in winter.

The design of the veil often reflected a woman’s social rank and marital status. For instance, married women during the Han Dynasty wore embroidered veils that took up to several months to get ready, with intricate patterns often featuring dragons or phoenixes that symbolized prosperity. One veil required more than 100 grams of silk thread and was valued as high as several months of work by an artisan. On the other hand, unmarried young women wore less decorated veils, which signified modesty and their being available for marriage.

Symbol of Modesty

The veil had turned into a profound symbol of modesty during the Tang Dynasty, 618–907 CE, when culture flourished and strict social hierarchies were in place. Women of higher classes had to maintain their dignity with modest behavior, and a veil was worn as if it were a physical manifestation of these values. The veil itself is supposed to have been most often made of silk gauze, light enough not to obscure a woman’s features completely yet too thick for her face to be clearly distinguished. A single silk gauze veil could cost some 200 coins at the time, quite high when considering the ordinary month wage of a commoner laborer, which fell in the bracket of 500 to 800 coins.

Beyond its social implications, the veil served as a practical tool for women to navigate public spaces while adhering to Confucian ideals. Tang-era urban centers, such as Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an), were bustling with diverse populations. Women walking through crowded markets often wore veils to prevent direct eye contact with strangers, a behavior considered inappropriate for women of virtue. In these cases, veils were designed to cover the lower half of the face, so the wearer could still be recognizable to friends and family but maintain some level of propriety. These veils were especially popular among wives and daughters of merchants, as they often had to attend their families’ trading events but still needed to maintain some cultural decorum.

Religious practices also perpetuated the use of veils as a modesty accessory. In Buddhist ceremonies, women wore plain veils as a sign of humility and respect. For example, during Vesak, one of the most important Buddhist festivals that celebrates the birth of the Buddha, it was customary for women to wear white veils made of cotton or silk as they went through the rituals in the temple. White, associated with purity, further underscored the moral ideals linked with the practice. The veils of cotton were cheaper, and it was possible to purchase them for about 50 coins, thus making them more affordable for the middle class or even poorer classes.

Religious Influences

Religious practices influenced the use of the veil in ancient China as shown through the influences brought forth by Buddhism, Daoism, and later on by Islam. During the early Han and Tang Dynasties, from 206 BCE to 907 CE, veiling was also part of Buddhist nuns’ garb, signaling detachment from worldly desires and maintaining humbleness. These veils were usually made from plain cotton or hemp, affordable materials that reflected their vow of poverty. A cotton veil at that time cost about 50 coins, making it affordable for monastic communities where individual monks or nuns often subsisted on less than 200 coins per month.

In Daoist practices, veils were used in ritual ceremonies to represent purity and spiritual isolation. The veil, in particular, was worn by female Daoist practitioners, especially those serving in temples, as a sign of separation from worldly concerns during sacred rites. These veils were usually dyed in shades of green or white, colors associated with harmony and purity in Daoist symbolism. The price for a green silk veil could be between 300 to 500 coins, for it required an extremely good dye and craftsmanship to make such a piece of cloth, considering the importance of such clothes in religious contexts. Many of these veils were embroidered with talismans, believed to increase spiritual protection for the wearer, aside from ceremonial use.

The arrival of Islam in China during the Tang Dynasty further diversified the religious use of veils. Head coverings became a part of their dress code for Muslim women, mainly in regions such as Xinjiang and parts of central China, as was stipulated by Islamic law on modesty. These veils, referred to as hijabs or niqabs, were manufactured using different materials, based on regional climates and other economic factors. In colder regions, wool or thicker cotton veils were common and usually cost in the range of 100 to 150 coins, while wealthy families in warmer climates could get silk veils that cost 500 coins or more. The use of Islamic veils was a peculiar example of the assimilation of religious customs into Chinese culture, especially within Hui communities.

Ming Dynasty Formality

During the Ming Dynasty, 1368–1644 CE, veils became an integral part of formal attire and were symbolic of rank in society and ceremonial importance, aside from modesty. Veils were most in use by women during important life events, such as weddings, religious ceremonies, and court appearances. The materials and craftsmanship of such veils reflected the social status of the wearer. For instance, upper-class women wore veils made of finely woven silk, which could cost upwards of 1,500 coins, while common women used cotton veils priced between 200 and 300 coins, offering a more affordable option.

Bridal veils during this period were particularly elaborate, serving as a centerpiece of traditional wedding attire. The iconic red veil, known as “红盖头”, was used to cover the bride’s face throughout the wedding ceremony. These veils were usually embroidered with gold and silver threads and auspicious symbols, such as dragons and phoenixes, which symbolized marital harmony and prosperity. An exquisite-quality red silk veil with complicated designs could weigh as much as over 500 grams and take months for artisans to finish, costing up to 5,000 coins, which was the annual income of a skilled craftsman. This they at times replaced with less-expensive veils made of dyed cotton in order to minimize the costs while keeping the cultural meaning intact.

Veils were also used as rank markers among noblewomen in the courtly settings. The women from the imperial family wore veils decorated with pearls, jade, or gold tassels, symbolizing their privileged position. A typical imperial veil may have required 20 pearls and several grams of gold to be produced, making its cost upwards of 10,000 coins. These were the veils worn during official ceremonies: royal banquets, ancestor worship events. Wives of the common officials wore veils either of plain silk or gauze with a minimum ornamentation costing about 2,000 coins. This difference in materials and design reflected the rigid social stratification of the Ming court.

Qing Dynasty Transformations

The Qing Dynasty, from 1644 to 1912 CE, saw significant changes in the use and design of veils in China due to the blending of Han Chinese traditions with Manchu customs. Veils in the Ming Dynasty were heavily embroidered and represented modesty and rank. During the Qing period, however, Manchu-style headwear introduced the fashion of open designs, such as the “旗头” (banner headdress), which was worn for everyday occasions and became very popular among all classes of women, especially in urban areas. A simple banner headdress might cost about 1,000 coins, while an elaborate version strung with pearls and jewels could cost as much as 10,000 coins and thus had become a status marker, like veils in previous dynasties.

For women of the Han, veils still played an important role in ceremonial life. The red veil worn by brides on their wedding day—the “红盖头”—continued to be a necessary component of a wedding procession, though it was far less ornate than its Ming counterpart. A typical bridal veil in the Qing was dyed, usually made from silk or gauze, with not so much embroidery, and it cost 300 to 500 coins. Such is a reflection of the Qing government’s policies on the encouragement of frugality among the Han families. Though simplified, red veils still symbolized joy and prosperity, and the unveiling of a bride was an essential ritual during weddings.

While less common in Manchu, veils were adopted by Manchu women in various forms to cover the face while outdoors. For instance, women from the upper class would often wear light gauze or half-masks called “面纱” to protect themselves against the sun or wind with elegance. These were particularly practical in northern China, where the climate was harsher. A middle-quality gauze covering would go for approximately 200 coins, whereas the high-end ones with embroidered designs could be as expensive as over 800 coins. The coverings were also worn by Han women in northern provinces, merging the traditions between the two ethnic groups.

The religious practices during the Qing Dynasty also played a role in the use of veils. The women who went to the Buddhist temples wore plain white veils to show piety and respect. These veils were usually made of undyed cotton or silk and were rather cheap, between 100 to 300 coins, thus available to the wider population. Noblewomen who visited temples wore veils with subtle patterns or light embroidery that reflected their status. Veils were also used in funeral ceremonies: mourning women wore veils in dark or muted colors to show their grief. These veils were gray or black, usually made of cotton or hemp, and cost 50 to 200 coins, reflecting their somber purpose and simple design.

Regional Variations

The use of veils in China varied greatly due to the influence of a variety of factors, which included climate, cultural tradition, and economic conditions. In southern China, where it was warm and humid, women often used veils made with lightweight materials such as silk gauze or fine cotton during summer, when the average temperatures are usually above 30°C. These veils were designed to provide comfort and breathability while offering modesty. In southern regions, such as Guangdong, a silk gauze veil could cost anything from 300 to 600 coins, reflecting the local abundance of silk production, thereby reducing transportation and manufacturing costs in the production process.

Regions like Shaanxi and Inner Mongolia in the north had a different requirement: veils durable enough to deal with more extremes of climate, cold winters with temperatures falling below -10°C, and sandstorms. Women in such regions would use thicker veils, made from wool or heavy cotton. A woolen veil would cost about 800 to 1,200 coins because of the additional work needed to process this raw material. These veils were not only practical but also culturally important, as they were often decorated with regional patterns or symbols. For example, in northern areas, sometimes the embroidery used on veils included flowers or animals native to that particular environment, serving the dual purpose of functionality and ornamentation.

Regional differences were partly a factor of ethnic diversity. In Xinjiang, the Uyghur people, with their adherence to Islam, necessitated veiling as part and parcel of daily wear among women. These veils—also known as hijabs or niqabs—sometimes showed their design and material according to social standing and climate. Rich families used silk or high-quality cotton for their veils, in which the price ranged from 500 to 1,000 coins, while poorer households made use of coarser cotton at about 100 coins a veil. The designs reflected the local culture, too, often using bright colors and geometrical patterns in the cloth.

For instance, people living in coastal areas like Fujian and Zhejiang used veils to protect themselves from the wind and sun while fishing or farming. This is because of the very strong sea breezes facing such areas. Veils worn by women were commonly made of hemp or a mixture of hemp and silk, priced at 200 to 500 coins. These materials are used because they can withhold all the wear and tear while not being too expensive. Since veils are coastal and mainly used for practical reasons and not decorative, there were usually simple designs; although richer families had small embroidered details in their veils to make them different from working-class people.

Bridal Traditions