Shang Dynasty clothing included the yi (tunic) and chang (skirt). Nobles wore silk with 30–40 threads/cm², costing a farmer’s yearly income, while commoners used durable hemp, lasting 3–5 years. Layers added warmth; fur-lined robes increased insulation by 40%, showcasing class distinctions in materials and craftsmanship.
Yi and Chang
During the Shang Dynasty, the main clothes were the yi and chang. They combined to form a two-piece outfit that reflected a balanced combination of practicality and symbolism. The yi consisted of a knee-length tunic with narrow cuffs, while the chang was a long skirt that reached down to the ankles and mirrored both practicality and cultural values. These garments could adapt easily to various social classes, climates, and occasions with obvious differences in materials, craftsmanship, and design.
For the nobility, the yi and chang were made of silk, an expensive fabric that only the nobility could afford. Garments of silk from the Shang Dynasty had an average thread density of 30–40 threads per square centimeter, making the fabric smooth and light. The labor involved in silk production was very intensive, as one robe often needed about 25–30 silkworm cocoons to make the required threads. A complete set of silk yi and chang for a nobleman could take several months to produce, with an estimated value equivalent to the annual income of a common farmer. In contrast, commoners wore garments made of hemp, which had a lower thread density of 10–15 threads per square centimeter. Hemp cloth was coarser but durable and cost less than 10% of the price of silk, hence becoming an economical choice for ordinary laborers.
Designs and decorations of both yi and chang also varied significantly between classes. For example, the nobles usually wore garments with heavy embroidery, depicting dragons or phoenixes as motifs, symbolizing authority and prestige. The number of stitches in these designs sometimes could amount to up to 20,000 stitches, requiring artisan stitches to work for weeks over their finishing. Dyestuffs for such apparel also came from rare sources of madder root or indigo, where every kilogram of dye needed processing some 100 kilograms of raw plant material. The expensive nature of this process in manufacture made vibrant clothing an asset reserved for the rich; as their status implied, ordinary persons attired themselves in earth-tone-colored, plain, undyed clothing. A farmer’s yi and chang usually lasted 3-5 years, but a noble’s silk garments could last for 10-15 years if well taken care of due to their quality.
Climate and seasons also played a critical role in the choice of materials and styles for the yi and chang. Lightweight silk garments weighing about 50-70 grams per square meter were used during summer to keep the elite cool during high temperatures. By comparison, commoners made use of thinner hemp or linen for similar purposes. Winter clothing included additional layers of fur or animal hide for added insulation. A noble’s outfit in winter might feature fur-lined silk – reducing heat loss by as much as 40 percent compared to single-layer garments. Such additions greatly increased production costs: a fur-lined silk robe could cost as much as 15 times more than a basic hemp set. This seasonal adaptability ensured comfort while maintaining the distinct social hierarchy.
Silk and Hemp Materials
In the Shang Dynasty, clothing materials such as silk and hemp were of vital importance in defining class status and practicality. Because of its very complicated production process, silk was mainly reserved for the nobility. A single garment of silk required some 30 silkworm cocoons to produce the threads for weaving, and several weeks of weaving by a skilled artisan. An average price for one silk robe during the Shang was well over an average annual income of a middle-class merchant. This places the material out of the economic reach of most commoners, whereas hemp—a resilient and much cheaper fabric—constitutes the staple fabric for lower classes and costs less than 5% of the silk’s price per meter of fabric.
The physical properties of silk and hemp further differentiate the purposes to which these materials were put. Silk garments had a thread density of about 30 to 40 threads per square centimeter. As a result, it had a very smooth, light texture, very well-suited for formal garments and also those used in the ceremony. This fine texture allowed the application of very brilliant dyes; in fact, every kilogram of dye required up to 100 kilograms of plant material to be produced. Hemp was coarser, with only 10 to 15 threads per square centimeter, making for a coarser fabric, one better suited to the rigors of agricultural and manual labor. A hemp garment might last daily wear for three to five years, but silk clothing, if properly cared for, could last 10 to 15 years, making silk a long-term investment for the well-to-do.
Even their choice of silk and hemp was influenced by seasonal differences. Noble families preferred their finest silk garments weighing about 50 grams per square meter as a comfortable and breathable garb during the hot summer season. During winter, though, silk garments were filled with animal fur for improved insulation, a combination capable of costing up to a whopping 15 times higher than a standard hemp garment of the time. For ordinary people, light hemp or linen was worn in summer, supplemented in colder months by extra layers of hemp. Hemp was a thoroughly practical choice: it drew moisture away from the body and dried quickly, and thus was well-suited to hard labor both during planting and harvest seasons.
The manufacturing processes for silk and hemp also reflect the two fibers’ relative economic and cultural values. Silk needed the cultivation of mulberry trees for feeding silkworms, which were kept in controlled environments with much care. This makes silk not only expensive but also scarce; only the wealthiest families could afford such an item. On the other hand, hemp was widely grown in fields and required little maintenance, while its output was very high. A single acre of hemp could produce fibers for about 200 garments, while silk production on the same area would produce material for less than 20 garments. This difference ensured that hemp remained the dominant fabric of the majority, while silk became a mark of status and refinement.
Ornate Robes for Elites
Ornate robes worn by the elites during the Shang Dynasty were works of art that reflected power, wealth, and religious significance. These robes, made of silk, required an extensive production process. Creating one full-length silk robe could take a team of skilled artisans up to three months, with the silk threads spun from approximately 30,000 silkworm cocoons. Such robes, accordingly, cost as much as a craftsman’s earnings for a whole year or the price of several heads of livestock, showing just how exclusive they were to the nobility.
These robes were elaborately designed with various patterns, such as dragons, phoenixes, and other mythological animals that signified divinity and power. As many as 20,000 stitches could be used to embroider one robe, with each stitch having been made by hand. Sometimes gold and silver threads would be incorporated; just one gram of gold thread might cost as much as a commoner earned in a month. Equally expensive were the dyes, with the vibrant red coming from safflower and purple from mollusk shells—both rare substances and complicated to treat. For instance, the production of purple dye required to color one robe may have entailed processing more than 10,000 mollusks, which therefore made such colors an unequivocal sign of elite status.
Seasonal variation and ceremonial purposes influenced the types of ornate robes. Nobles wore silk garments for summer that were light in weight—less than 50 grams per square meter—yet sumptuously decorated. In winter, the lining of silk robes would be made with animal furs like fox or mink, adding both to the warmth and grandeur. A fur-lined ceremonial robe could weigh up to five kilograms and cost as much as 15 standard silk robes due to the rarity of high-quality furs. These robes were often worn during rituals and royal ceremonies, emphasizing the wearer’s connection to divine power and societal leadership.
The durability of ornate robes also separated them from common attire. While the average life of a plain silk robe was about 10–15 years, elite garments were preserved for generations. Archaeological discoveries have found robes in burial sites that retained much of their original color and stitching despite being over 3,000 years old. This was achieved through fastidious craftsmanship and storage in climate-controlled palaces. In some cases, robes were embellished with jade or bronze ornaments, further increasing their value and serving as both clothing and portable wealth.
Minimalistic Designs for Commoners
Clothing for the ordinary people in the Shang Dynasty was meant for utility, with minimalistic design in order to achieve maximum functionality. The commoners were normally dressed in attire prepared with mostly hemp, cheap and strong fabric, costing less than 5% of silk, it being a good raw material to make such clothing. Two square meters of hemp fabric used as a farmer’s or laborer’s outfit could be prepared with less than 500 grams of hemp fibers. From the harvest of hemp to weaving the fabric, the whole process took about a week. Because of this, the commoners were able to have a large supply of these fabrics.
Commoners’ cloth designs were plain, usually without embroidery or any other ornaments. Garments were often dyed in natural, subdued colors like beige or brown, as dyes made from materials such as madder or indigo were too expensive for widespread use. A kilogram of indigo dye, for instance, needed more than 100 kilograms of processing plant material and could cost as many days’ wages for a laborer. Because of these factors, most commoners settled for undyed garments since this also cut down time and production costs. These simple designs made clothes not only easy to make, but also to repair or maintain for everyday labors.
Practicality was perhaps one of the most significant themes in minimalist attire. A yi was a short tunic, while the chang, a long skirt, had the added purpose of covering against the elements. A set was requisite for agricultural labor. Worn together, one set of hemp yi and chang lasted a farmer three to five years, an affordable option for everyday wear. Compared to silk garments, which could last up to 15 years but were prohibitively expensive, hemp clothing was accessible to the majority of the population. During the colder months, additional layers of hemp fabric were added, sometimes padded with straw for insulation, offering an affordable way to withstand harsh weather conditions.
Clothing for commoners also adapted to the labor-intensive nature of their lives. Although not as comfortable as silk, the coarse texture of the fabric was highly resistant to tearing and abrasion; it was perfect for farming, construction, and transportation. The daily attire of a laborer weighed about 1.5 kilograms, not including additional tools or accessories such as belts made from woven plant fibers used for carrying small items. These utilitarian features enhanced the efficiency and practicality of the garment, reinforcing its role as a tool for daily survival rather than a marker of status or wealth.
Color Symbolism
Color use in the Shang Dynasty has symbolic depth that indicates social hierarchy, cultural belief, and spiritual importance. Due to their expensive production and time-consuming work of making dyes, vivid colors such as red, yellow, and purple could only be used by nobility. For instance, to produce red dye for one silk robe, about 20 kilograms of safflower petals needed to be extracted for their pigments alone, a process that could take several days by a team of workers. These colors were often associated with power and divine favor since red symbolized prosperity and good fortune, while yellow represented the Earth and imperial authority.
The commoners, however, wore clothes in subdued shades of beige, gray, and brown. These came from readily available materials such as clay, bark, and vegetable residues, which required the least amount of processing. For example, natural brown dye from walnut husks could be prepared in a day without much effort. These muted colors reflected the practical and frugal lifestyle of the lower classes. Such tones of a farmer’s outfit not only symbolized their lower status but also served practical purposes: earth-toned clothes could mask dirt and stains from agricultural work.
Yellow was the color most deeply imbued with the ruling elite. Production of yellow dye often included processing turmeric or saffron, both rare and expensive. A kilogram of saffron could require harvesting over 150,000 crocus flowers, making it one of the most valuable dyes. Yellow robes were worn by royalty and high-ranking officials during religious ceremonies or important state events as a sign of their connection with divine power. These garments, often decorated with gold threads, gave even more status and exclusiveness to already exclusive garments; one robe could cost as much as the produce of a whole village in a year.
Blue and green, though less common among the elite, carried specific connotations in ceremonial attire. Blue, the color of the heavens and spiritual purity, was often worn during ancestral rituals. Indigo plants required fermentation processes, which took almost a week, to produce blue dye; thus, even though it was cheaper than red or yellow, it still was not affordable for ordinary people. Green, as a color of growth and renewal, was used occasionally in ritual garments to symbolize fertility and prosperity. Yet, blue and green were easier to obtain than the dyes for red and yellow and so mid-ranking officials and even wealthy merchants could wear garments dyed with these colors.
Accessories and Headgear
Accessories and headwear in the Shang Dynasty were important indicators of social class, wealth, and cultural identity, respectively. Different classes wore different headgear and other personal adornments in distinctive forms and materials. Guan symbolized authority and rank; formal headgear, often of silk or leather, was worn by the elite classes. A guan had varying costs depending on what materials and embellishments were used. For instance, a guan adorned with jade pieces could cost the equivalent of several months of a laborer’s wages, as jade was highly valued and required skilled craftsmanship. These headpieces were often worn during ceremonies or official functions, reinforcing their wearer’s elevated status.
Jewelry and other accessories were crafted from materials like jade, bronze, and even gold. The carving and polishing of a noblewoman’s jade bracelet could take weeks, with the artisans using their rudimentary tools to achieve intricate designs. These bracelets weighed upwards of 50–100 grams and could be worth as much as a small herd of livestock. Bronze belts with decorative clasps were also worn by people of high rank; each clasp often had engraved patterns of dragons or other mythical creatures. Such items required advanced technology in bronze casting and were, therefore, not only serviceable items but also symbols of technological achievement.
For ordinary people, accessories and headgear were very simple. Wooden or bone hairpins were practical and inexpensive, usually costing less than 1 percent of the price of a jade ornament. Such hairpins served both practical and decorative purposes, helping to keep hair styled during daily labor. Commoners would also wear simple leather or hemp belts to hold up their tunics, and these were usually unadorned. Unlike the decorative belts of the elite, these items were prized for their strength and functionality, not for their aesthetic qualities.
Seasonal and ceremonial reasons determined the type of accessory and headwear worn. Fur-lined hats were worn in winter by all classes, although the materials differed greatly. A nobleman’s might be lined with fox fur for added warmth and as a display of status—the fur was as expensive as a small piece of jade. The commoners used rabbit or goat fur, cheaper and more easily found. During ceremonial occasions, members of the nobility added other ornaments, like pendants or earrings, in the form of precious metals. Each piece was carefully crafted to complement their attire with the intent of emphasizing social standing.
Layering for Formal Attire
In the Shang Dynasty, layering in formal attire had both functional and symbolic implications, reflecting the social hierarchy and the cultural emphasis on ritual propriety. The nobles and officials often wore more than one layer, with each layer representing something different in their status or ceremonial role. A formal outfit for a nobleman would usually consist of three to five layers of garments, starting with a simple undergarment made of silk, followed by a more elaborately decorated inner robe, and an outer ceremonial robe with intricate embroidery. This would bring the total weight of such an outfit easily over 5 kilograms, showcasing the wearer’s wealth in his ability to afford heavy, high-quality fabrics.
The materials used in these outfits of layers varied by social class. Nobles used light silk for the inner layer, with 30–40 threads per square centimeter to guarantee smoothness and breathability. For outerwear, heavier silks or brocades, weighing up to 100 grams per square meter, were in order. These outer layers, particularly when embroidered with gold or silver threads, could cost as much as a commoner’s yearly income. Commoners used hemp or linen for layering, and the outermost garments were sometimes padded with straw or wool to keep them warm during colder months.
Layering was also important on ceremonial occasions. During ancestral worship or at royal court rituals, the nobles wore certain combinations of colors and patterns in their layers as a sign of respect and to follow the cultural tradition. For example, an official may wear a red inner robe representing prosperity with an outer black robe that symbolizes solemnity. The embroidery on these garments often included motifs like dragons or clouds, which required thousands of stitches and several weeks to complete. Such ceremonial clothes had costs exceeding the wages that ten artisans could earn from a month’s work and could only be afforded by a very few people in high society.
The practicality of layering extended into seasonal consideration. In the winter, additional layers are added for warmth without betraying the ceremonial function of the attire. A noble’s winter ceremonial outfit might feature fur linings in the outermost robe, employing fox or mink fur that could be as expensive as 15 standard silk garments. The lining increased insulation by 40% compared to unlined silk and thus was able to provide comfort in cold weather conditions. For commoners, the layering consisted of multiple layers of hemp or wool garments, which, while heavier and not as elegant, provided enough protection against the cold for their outdoor tasks.
